Dosnon Recolte Blanc de Noirs Cotes des Bar, Champagne

 Davy Dosnon runs this small, artisan cellar in Avirey-Lingey. Dosnon pursues sustainable viticulture and makes his wines in a fairly non-manipulated style. All of the wines are fermented and aged in oak (although they rarely show overt influence from the wood) and are bottled with low dosage. Based on what I have tasted so far, Dosnon is one of Champagne’s most promising young wineries.

Antonio Galloni vinous.com

Dosnon Récolte Blanc de Noirs is a powerful, terroir driven Champagne that captures the soul of the Côte des Bar and the seriousness of Pinot Noir grown on limestone. The vineyards sit in the southern reaches of Champagne, closer to Chablis than Reims, where Kimmeridgian limestone soils dominate and Pinot Noir thrives. This geology gives the wine its chalky grip, vinosity and distinctive Burgundian feel.

Dosnon is a small grower producer based in Avirey Lingey, run by brothers Davy and Laurent Dosnon, whose philosophy is built on transparency, low intervention and deep respect for site. Récolte Blanc de Noirs is made entirely from Pinot Noir grown on their estate vineyards. Fermentation and ageing are handled with patience and restraint, allowing the wine to develop naturally rather than being shaped by overt cellar technique. The result is Champagne that feels honest, textured and expressive.

In the glass, the wine shows a pale gold hue with a subtle copper edge and a fine, persistent bead. Aromas are immediately engaging. Red apple, pear skin and quince sit alongside notes of cherry, almond and fresh bread. With air, deeper savoury and mineral elements emerge. Chalk, crushed stone and a faint smoky note add complexity and depth.

On the palate, this is Champagne with real presence. The wine is vinous and structured, with orchard fruit and subtle red fruit flavours carried by bright acidity and a refined, creamy mousse. The Pinot Noir character is clear but beautifully balanced, giving both weight and tension. There is a savoury undertone through the mid palate, and the finish is long, dry and mineral, echoing apple skin, nutty notes and limestone grip.

This is a Champagne made for the table. It pairs beautifully with charcuterie, roast poultry, pork, mushrooms or richer seafood dishes. While drinking very well now for its energy and detail, it also has the structure to age gracefully over five to ten years, gaining further savoury complexity and depth.

Dosnon Récolte Blanc de Noirs is confident, textured and deeply expressive of place. A serious grower Champagne for those who love Pinot Noir driven styles with vinosity, mineral tension and authenticity.