Jacquesson Cuvee No. 748, Champagne

Jacquesson’s NV Extra-Brut Cuvée No. 748 (base 2020), the 20th anniversary of this bottling, is gorgeous. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint, chamomile and spice all grace the palate. The No. 748 is not quite as austere as some recent releases in this series, which means it will drink quite well right out of the gate. Floral notes lift the finish, adding precision and energy. The No. 748 is one of the most elegant and refined editions of this wine I can remember tasting.

93 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Base 2020

Jacquesson is one of Champagne’s great individualists, founded in 1798 and transformed in the modern era by brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet. Rather than forcing every non-vintage release into exactly the same house style, Jacquesson created its numbered Cuvée series to celebrate the character of each harvest. Cuvée No. 748 is built around the 2020 vintage, complemented by reserve wines to add depth and continuity. Think of it as Champagne with a vintage personality rather than a recipe.

The fruit comes principally from Jacquesson’s superb vineyards around Aÿ, Dizy, Hautvillers, Avize and Oiry, spanning the chalky terroirs of the Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs. The 2020 base gives 748 generosity and ripe fruit, while reserve wines and extended lees ageing bring complexity and texture. Jacquesson’s famously restrained dosage keeps everything taut, vinous and wonderfully dry.

Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead, the nose opens with yellow apple, white peach and preserved lemon before brioche, toasted almond and chalk appear. With air come hints of pear skin, citrus oil, hazelnut and gentle spice. The palate is beautifully textured, with orchard fruit and citrus wrapped around fine bubbles and bright acidity. Toasted nuts and sourdough add savoury depth before a long, chalky finish with lemon peel and a delicious saline snap.

This deserves more than the obligatory oyster. Try scallops with brown butter and hazelnuts, tempura prawns, roast chicken with morels, Comté gougères or proper fish and chips with homemade tartare. Our pick is the scallops, sweet flesh, caramelised edges and nutty butter against Jacquesson’s chalk, citrus and bubbles is Champagne performing one of its better party tricks.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038.