100% pinot noir from 10 crus, mostly in the Montagne de Reims; reserves only from the previous year; aged 5 years on lees; 8g/L dosage; cork
Laurent-Perrier picks fruit specifically for its famous rosé, sorts it in its press houses in Oger and Tour-sur-Marne, and destems it prior to maceration at 15ºC for 48–72 hours, depending on fruit ripeness, until the colour is fixed and the aroma resembles freshly picked raspberries. So crucial is this timing, legend has it that the first chef de cave, Edouard Leclerc, slept by the tank to stop it just in time! Today, Michel Fauconnet tastes it every half hour when it gets close, and posts one of his team in the other village to do the same. The moment it’s ready, they drain off the free-run juice, and only include a little pressing.
This wine has achieved that elusive ideal of volume and finesse; the world’s best-selling rosé champagne epitomises the ultra-restraint of rosé’s finest expressions. All the more remarkable for the challenging saignée method. Its latest incarnation is a medium to full, vibrant crimson hue, singing with the personality of pinot noir in white raspberries, crunchy wild strawberries, redcurrants, pomegranates and tangy morello cherries. Ripe pinot noir is the resounding theme here, in all of its fruity, spicy and tangy glory, uniting finely managed tannin structure with salty chalk mineral texture and well-integrated ‘boiled sweets’ dosage. Five years in the deep has built texture without interrupting its primary vibrancy. Older disgorgements begin to take on balsamic notes. An unashamed saignée style to drink young, with the structural scaffolding and confidence to partner effortlessly with protein. Jamón would be perfect!
94 points Tyson Stelzer The Champagne Guide 2020-2021