Delamotte NV Brut, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Reims

Delamotte is best known as the sister estate of its famous neighbour Salon, one of the most storied names in Champagne. Increasingly, though, the Delamotte wines are noteworthy for their own merits.

2010 base vintage; 55% grand cru chardonnay, 35% grand cru Pinot Noir, 10% meuniere; a blend of Oger, Avise, Cremant, Tour-sur-Marne, Ambonnay, Reuil and Fleury la Riviere; aged 3 years on lees; 7g/L.

The NV Brut is a gorgeous, deep wine endowed with an attractive core of rich fruit. This is an especially mid-weight, expansive Champagne with commendable balance and a long, finessed finish. Smoke, minerals and earthiness add complexity on the close.