2023 Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale

From original '46 vines next to the High Sands block. The '23 grenache wines are very pale in the glass, and they are all a degree lighter in alcohol due to the cool year (one I love). A vintage like this really illustrates the kinship with the avant-garde grenache of Gredos, and with Barbaresco, and refined Etna Rosso (Girolamo Russo in particular), rather than almost anything from the Rhône. Savoury, dried red fruits, cranberry, cherry and redcurrant, warm terracotta, bergamot, potpourri, sumac, ground cinnamon, star anise, so tightly coiled, but also tensile, finely expansive in its flavour delivery. There’s tension aplenty, and it promises to unfurl over a long life. Superb. Drink to 2038.

97 points & Special Value Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion, May 2025

100% Grenache taken from Block 30 – 2 hectares planted in 1946 and adjacent to the Highs Sands block. Another McLaren Vale Grenache that elicits excitement for the grape and place. This is impressive in its balance of brightness and perfume while still wonderfully cerebral and complex. Lifted aromas of sweet raspberry compote, macerated strawberry and red liquorice lead before a cut of white pepper spice acts as a savoury foil. Very pretty and seductively perfumed. There’s a warm sand note beneath which is a common note of high quality modern day McLaren Vale Grenache (almost too obvious a note given the sandy soils) some dried garrigue adding further savouriness, dried cranberry, black tea. There’s a distinct river stone minerality shooting through its centre, too. This is very pretty, though not at the expense of immense depth and intrigue. The palate is racy, mineral, cool and lifted with pretty pops of raspberry, red apple flesh, cranberry, and red rose crunched within a vein of powder-coated tannins and fresh acidity with the sand and dried herb notes lingering beneath. The finish is long and crunchy with red apple skin tension and red liquorice appeal. An ethereal Ovitelli Grenache from the cool 2023 vintage.

96 points Tom Kline for Wine Pilot, June 2025

The 2023 Ovitelli Grenache is a marvel. The wine leads with orange peel and sarsaparilla, fennel, licorice and crushed shell. In the mouth, the tannins are sandy and very fine yet pervasive. They coat the mouth like a good Etna Rosso and give the fruit something to work with. This is bloody and gritty yet gossamer fine ... chalky doesn't quite cover it. I find this very exciting; the length really nails home the power and prowess of the region through the lens of this variety. The grapes are 100% destemmed, crushed and tipped into Clayver ceramic eggs with gentle hand plunging. The fruit remained on the skins post ferment for seven months, and no pressings were used in the wine. This matured in ceramic egg for a total of eleven months (no oak) and remained in bottle for a year prior to release. Drink to 2038.

96 points Erin Larkin for The Wine Advocate, May 2025

Adjacent to the herald High Sands block, the Ovitelli comes from vines planted in 1946. Fermentation occurs in Clayver ceramic eggs and on skins for 7 months, no pressings were used. Matured in ceramic for 11 months total. Dehydrated raspberries, Sweetheart cherries and wild strawberries. Crushed sandstone, saffron threads and Sichuan peppercorns. Acidity leads the charge followed by those unique Ovitelli tannins that sap and dry the palate, before floods of red berry flavours rush in again. This can only be one wine and a decidedly approachable vintage at that, some quince bitters give lift and texture to the finish of the wine. Always memorable, always a wild ride and one of a kind. Pair with Tasmania tiger prawns and red pepper sauce.

96 points Shanteh Wale for Wine Pilot, October 2025

Pale in appearance. The nose gives lifted aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, sweet spices and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of dark cherries, dried herbs and cocoa. Exceptionally lifted and fresh. Drink or hold.

96 points James Suckling, October 2024

The 2023 Grenache Ovitelli is stunning. This has wonderful purity of energetic red cherry, dried herb and subtle meaty tones. Savory complexity builds on a textural palate while holding impressive composure through to a finish of serious length accented by a twist of tannins. Drink to 2042.

95 points Angus Hughson for Vinous, April 2025

Bright ruby and purple in the glass. Raspberry, crushed terracotta and dried woody herb aromatics. Palate sings with fresh, just-picked raspberry fruits, as that sweet core evolves we see dusty earth, anise and dried rosemary notes build along the line. Tannins are powerful with a fine grained texture, driving the length and ensuring it builds power right to the finish. Drink to 2039.

95 points Stuart Knox for The Real Review, February 2025

Bright medium-light purple-red colour; dusty straw, terracotta and red jube aromas, a touch of dried nettle. The wine is medium bodied and fruit-sweet at the heart, with a plushness and shrouding of fluffy tannins. Long, smooth flow of flavour and fine grained tannins in harmony. Very smart grenache. Drink to 2038.

94 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review, May 2025

Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache is a compelling and textural expression of McLaren Vale Grenache that showcases the elegance and natural structure possible from this historic variety when treated with care. Named after the large ceramic eggs (ovitelli) in which the wine is fermented and matured, this cuvée captures purity of fruit, gentle extraction and a distinct sense of place.

The fruit is sourced from bush vines planted in 1946 on the deep sands of Yangarra’s Blewitt Springs estate, one of the highest and coolest parts of McLaren Vale. These old vines produce small, intensely flavoured berries with exceptional balance and freshness. The late winemaker Peter Fraser, a pioneer in biodynamic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking, guided the fruit through wild fermentation with a high proportion of whole bunches, followed by maturation for 11 months in the egg-shaped ceramic vessels. These vessels allow gentle oxygen exchange while preserving brightness and fine tannin structure.

The result is a Grenache of rare finesse. Aromas of raspberry, red cherry and rose petal are layered with spice, crushed herbs, orange peel and earthy undertones. The palate is savoury and silken, with a fine grip and chalky tannins that bring shape without weight. There’s energy and quiet depth that unfolds with each sip.

Food pairings include spiced lamb koftas, mushroom and farro salad, or roast duck with cherry glaze. It’s also excellent with Manchego or a grilled vegetable tart. Drink now for its vibrancy or cellar 10 to 12 years to explore its more savoury evolution.