Sadi Malot Terre d'Origine Blanc de Blancs Brut 1er Cru, Champagne

Sadi Malot is a small family grower based in Villers Marmery, a fascinating Premier Cru village on the eastern side of the Montagne de Reims. The Malot family has grown vines here for generations, with Cindy and Florian Malot now carrying the domaine forward. Villers Marmery is an unusual pocket of Chardonnay in a landscape dominated by Pinot Noir, and that gives the wines a personality quite different from the better known Blanc de Blancs of the Côte des Blancs.

Terre d’Origine is 100% Chardonnay from Premier Cru vineyards around Villers Marmery. Chalk lies beneath the soils and gives the wine its firm mineral backbone, while the slightly warmer Montagne de Reims setting contributes a little extra breadth and fruit. It is very much grower Champagne in spirit, focused on vineyard character rather than creating a uniform house style, with lees ageing adding texture while preserving the freshness of Chardonnay.

Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. Lemon, crisp pear and white peach lead into grapefruit and delicate blossom, followed by brioche and fresh almond. Oyster shell, chalk and a little ginger sit underneath. The palate is finely textured, with citrus and orchard fruit wrapped around a creamy mousse and lively acidity. Lemon zest, almond and chalk gather through a long, dry finish with a lovely saline snap.

Kingfish sashimi with ponzu and finger lime would be brilliant with its citrus and chalky drive. Fresh oysters, scallops with lemon butter, tempura prawns or a crab and fennel tart would take things in equally delicious directions. There is enough substance here to stay at the table well beyond the first round of seafood.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.