2016 Barr-Eden Estate Love Over Gold Shiraz, Eden Valley

There is a single puncheon (50 cases) of the 2016 Love Over Gold Shiraz, selected from the best parcels of the vineyard and 90% hand-destemmed, with the balance included as whole bunches. Like previous vintages, it shows remarkable density and complexity, a creamy, full-bodied feel on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. No doubt every lucky person who tastes it will find their own descriptors for the myriad aromas and flavors, but to me, it delivers a potpourri of resinous-herbal nuances (thyme, rosemary, lavender), blueberry and boysenberry fruit and hints of mocha, black olive and licorice. Smooth and supple, yet possessing ample tannin and structure, it should drink well for two decades, possibly even longer.

Barr-Eden Estate is the new name for the Love Over Gold partnership between Tim Howser, Joel Mattschoss, Pierre-Henri Morel and Michael Twelftree. Morel is the general manager of Two Hands and Howser and Twelftree are owners of Two Hands, while Mattschoss is a grape grower, with vines on Mengler's Hill. The Love Over Gold Shiraz is sourced from vines planted in the 1920s, while the Avenue to Gold bottling comes from younger vines. Quantities of the top wines are very limited (25 cases of the Grenache and 50 cases of the Shiraz) and fall into the price category of "If you have to ask...," but the Dreams of Gold Shiraz, which comes from young vines, is more affordable and made in larger volumes.

97 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

Barr Eden Estate Love Over Gold Shiraz is one of the most dramatic expressions of Eden Valley, coming from some of the highest and most extreme vineyard sites in South Australia. The estate is owned and run by Joel Mattschoss and Pierre Henri Morel, two winemakers whose obsession with site, altitude and old soils has helped redefine what Eden Valley Shiraz can be. These vineyards sit on rugged, windswept ridges with shallow rocky soils, where vines struggle and yields are naturally low, creating fruit of enormous intensity and natural balance.

Eden Valley is all about contrast. Warm sunshine during the day builds deep flavour, while cold nights and constant airflow preserve acidity and aromatic lift. Love Over Gold is the flagship expression of this place, capturing both the power and the finesse that high altitude Shiraz can deliver.

In the glass, the wine is dark and brooding, showing black cherry, blueberry and plum, layered with cracked pepper, violets, dried herbs and a distinctive ironstone savoury note. The palate is powerful yet finely etched, with bright acidity and firm, fine grained tannins giving length and tension rather than weight. It is muscular and elegant at the same time, a hallmark of great Eden Valley Shiraz.

This is a natural partner for food. Slow roasted lamb, charcoal grilled beef, venison, rich mushroom dishes or anything cooked over fire will bring out its depth and spice.

Barr Eden Estate Love Over Gold Shiraz is drinking well with air when young, but it is built for the long term. Expect it to evolve over twenty to thirty years, gaining layers of earthy, spicy and savoury complexity as it matures. It is a true collector’s wine and one of Eden Valley’s most compelling modern releases.