2020 Jim Barry Assyrtiko Museum Release, Clare Valley

Delicate aromatics at first. A puff of Mediterranean herbs and lemon blossom, but of course all the action is on the palate. Steely, tight and linear, with wet stone and lime juice. The acidity is pure talc and the finish pristine. Lip-smacking and delicious. Drink by 2028

95 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au 

Jim Barry Assyrtiko Museum Release from the Clare Valley is a rare and remarkable example of how this Greek white variety can thrive—and evolve—on Australian soil. The Barry family were pioneers in planting Assyrtiko outside of its native Santorini, bringing cuttings to Clare in 2008. Their belief in its potential has paid off handsomely, with this museum release offering a deeper, more complex look at what time can bring to the variety.

Winemaker Tom Barry, grandson of the legendary Jim Barry, takes a precise and minimal-intervention approach to this wine. Grown on the family’s Lodge Hill vineyard at 480 metres elevation, the vines benefit from Clare’s cool nights and ironstone-rich soils. The result is a wine with intense drive and minerality.

With a few years in bottle, this Assyrtiko reveals lemon oil, green almond, preserved citrus, sea spray and a touch of smoky flint. The palate remains focused and electric, with chalky texture, salty acidity and a lingering savoury finish. It has retained its core tension but layered on complexity and depth, showing just how well this variety can age in Australian conditions.

Ideal with oysters, grilled white fish, preserved lemon chicken or a herbed goat cheese tart. Will continue to age gracefully for another 5 to 10 years.