2020 Louis Moreau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Les Clos is the spine of Chablis, broad, powerful and unmistakably mineral, and Louis Moreau keeps it grounded in a classic, no fuss style that lets the vineyard do the talking. From Kimmeridgian limestone packed with fossil shells, this is where Chablis shifts from bright and linear into something deeper and more layered.

The 2020 vintage brings a bit of generosity to the site. Lemon curd, grapefruit and ripe apple lead, with a hint of white peach rounding things out. There’s that signature Chablis imprint running through it, oyster shell, chalk and a faint smoky note, with a touch of almond and spice building as it opens.

It fills the palate more than most Chablis, medium to full bodied with a broad, almost mouthcoating texture, but the acidity keeps everything in check. There’s a firm saline line cutting through the fruit, pulling it into focus and carrying a long, mineral finish that feels both powerful and precise.

Moreau’s approach stays traditional, letting the fruit and site lead, with oak used carefully so it never distracts from that mineral core.

This is built for food with a bit of weight. Lobster with garlic butter, scallops with a light caramelisation, or a saffron laced seafood stew all make sense. It also works beautifully with dishes like crab linguine or a rich fish pie, where the wine’s structure keeps everything from feeling too heavy.

Already impressive, but still young. It will evolve over the next fifteen years or more, gaining depth, savoury complexity and a more seamless feel as it settles in.