2021 Aphelion Affinity, McLaren Vale

At last, the courage to do away with the ‘GSM’ moniker, particularly when vintage conditions and the pursuit of balance demand it. Mercifully bereft of excessive shiraz fruit, this is a delicious wine of considerable structure and serious depth, juxtaposed against an effortless drinkability promoted by a whole-berry, whole-bunchy friskiness. Best, the strata of tannins that underlie a stream of cranberry, rose hip, fecund strawberry and heather, with a saline spurt of acidity pulsing long.

95 points Special Value Ned Goodwin MW for Halliday Wine Companion, May 2023

This is a savoury, spicy and complex 60/40 blend of Seaview Grenache and Willunga Mourvèdre (Mataro). Vinified separately, the Mourvèdre was cold-soaked pre-ferment, while a portion of the Grenache was fermented with stems. The parcels matured for ten months in seasoned French oak puncheons and hogsheads prior to blending. The wine was not fined or filtered ahead of bottling in January 2022.

Would work well with something like a lentil salad with charred radicchio, aged feta, pomegranate and sumac or grilled calf’s liver wrapped in pancetta and sage.

About this producer

Aphelion is the McLaren Vale based negociant business of Rob and Lou Mack. Founded in 2014, they focus on small batches of Grenache, with key long term growers including Marsh Brini, Jo Lepresti, Ben Lacey, Robyn and Gary Wait as well as Cathy Charnock and Peter Lockett.