2021 Domaine Naturaliste Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc, Margaret River

Given the difficult vintage, this is showing lovely, if big, flavours with no weedy nuances at all. An impressive wine rich in black fruit, dark chocolate studded with mint, lashings of cedary oak and plentiful tannins. No wallflower as it’s full bodied and almost voluptuous, yet the finish is long and generous.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Domaine Naturaliste Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc is one of Bruce Dukes’ most intriguing wines, showing just how well Bordeaux’s quiet achiever thrives in Margaret River’s maritime climate. Dukes, who trained in viticulture and oenology at UC Davis and honed his craft in California before returning home, has become renowned for his ability to craft wines that are both generous and refined, and his passion for the subtleties of single-varietal expressions shines through in this release.

The Le Naturaliste range is all about purity, balance, and a true sense of place. Cabernet Franc is usually seen playing a supporting role in blends, but in Margaret River it shows off a vivid personality of its own. Sourced from sustainably farmed vineyards that benefit from cooling Indian Ocean breezes, the grapes ripen slowly, developing fine tannins, lively acidity, and aromatic lift. Dukes ferments the wine with minimal intervention, using gentle extraction to highlight fragrance over weight.

In the glass, it opens with layers of redcurrant, cranberry, and wild raspberry, supported by floral notes of violet and a faint herbaceous edge of sage and tobacco leaf that speaks to the variety’s Loire Valley heritage. The palate is silky and medium-bodied, with bright acidity carrying flavours of cherry and spice, all framed by supple tannins and a mineral thread typical of Margaret River’s gravelly soils. It finishes long, fresh, and savoury, making it an elegant counterpoint to the region’s more muscular Cabernets.

Food pairings are wonderfully versatile, with its lifted aromatics and freshness suiting dishes like chargrilled lamb cutlets with rosemary, duck breast with cherry glaze, or even mushroom and lentil cassoulet. While beautifully approachable in its youth, Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc has the balance and fine structure to cellar for 5 to 8 years, gaining earthy complexity with time.