2022 Alain et Cyril Gautheron Chablis Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

Four plots making around 3ha. 80% in stainless steel and 20% in oak, sample prepared, actual blend will be before the harvest. A delightful very pale lime green. There is a little flesh apparent even on the nose from the age of the vines. Excellent tension behind, a searing chiselled white fruit, for once the old vine aspect really adds something rather than just making more concentrated.

90-92 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Alain et Cyril Gautheron Chablis Vieilles Vignes is a beautifully pure, tightly coiled and mineral driven expression of old vine Chardonnay grown on the limestone rich slopes around Fleys, one of Chablis’ great terroirs. The Gautheron family has been tending these vineyards for generations, and the old vines at the heart of this cuvée dig deeply into Kimmeridgian marl packed with fossilised seashells. Low yields give remarkable concentration, while the cool climate and long ripening season ensure tension and lifted aromatics. Fermentation in stainless steel preserves clarity, yet extended ageing on fine lees builds texture and quiet savoury depth without masking the terroir.

The aromatics are bright, focused and full of Chablis character. Lemon zest, green apple and white peach lead the way, joined by grapefruit pith, pear skin and a soft floral lift reminiscent of hawthorn and acacia. Beneath the fruit, a distinctive saline and chalk edged minerality rises from the glass, evoking crushed oyster shells and wet stone. As the wine opens, hints of fennel, lime leaf and subtle almond add nuance while keeping the style razor precise.

The palate is sleek, chiselled and beautifully detailed. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across a fine, lees enriched texture, powered by vibrant acidity that gives energy and length. Flavours of lemon curd, green apple, peach skin and a touch of nectarine unfold slowly, supported by a shimmering mineral backbone that drives the wine into an elegant, persistent finish. A few years in bottle will bring deeper hazelnut, flint and honeyed characters while maintaining its clean, saline line.

Brilliant with oysters, scallops, sushi, grilled whiting, prawns with garlic and herbs, goat cheese, tempura, fresh pasta with clams or simple lemon roasted chicken. Its beautiful balance of fruit, finesse and minerality makes it a standout old vine Chablis.