2022 Billy Button The Elusive Nebbiolo, Alpine Valley

Year in and out, this is an exceptional, mid-weighted expression for the money. Apt aromas of sandalwood, camp fire, orange peel and succulent red fruits. The tannins, nicely hewn and bony, clad in dried herb. Approachable, yet with no dearth of seriousness and integrity. 

92 points jamessuckling.com

Nebbiolo has found an intriguing second home in the Alpine Valleys of north east Victoria, where altitude, cool nights and long autumns help the variety develop the perfume and structure it is famous for in Piedmont. Billy Button Wines is the project of respected Victorian winemaker Jo Marsh, who has spent years working closely with small growers across the Alpine Valleys to highlight the region’s diverse sites. The Elusive Nebbiolo reflects both the challenge and charm of growing this demanding grape in Australia, with fruit sourced from cool elevated vineyards where the long ripening season allows Nebbiolo’s aromatic complexity and natural acidity to develop beautifully.

A pale garnet hue signals the classic style of the variety. Aromas rise gently with rose petal, red cherry and wild strawberry, followed by hints of dried herbs, orange peel and subtle earthy spice. With air the wine opens to reveal delicate notes of tea leaf, anise and savoury forest floor. The palate is finely structured with the hallmark Nebbiolo tannin sitting alongside bright acidity and flavours of sour cherry, cranberry and spice.

There is an elegant savoury thread that carries through the long finish, giving the wine both freshness and depth. It will continue to evolve for eight to twelve years and pairs wonderfully with mushroom risotto, slow braised beef, duck ragù with pasta or aged hard cheeses that complement its firm structure.