2022 Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja

Bodegas Muga is one of the great family names of Rioja, founded by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño in 1932 and still family owned today. Based in the historic railway quarter of Haro, Muga remains unusually traditional in the cellar, even maintaining its own cooperage to make and maintain barrels. The wines manage a clever balancing act between classical Rioja elegance and enough fruit and polish to keep them firmly in the modern world.

The 2022 Reserva is built around Tempranillo, supported by Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano from vineyards in Rioja Alta. The region’s combination of altitude, Atlantic influence and clay limestone soils helps retain freshness, particularly important in a warm, dry vintage such as 2022. Maturation in oak and further time in bottle add savoury complexity without burying the fruit, making this one of those very useful Riojas that can be enjoyed now or quietly forgotten in the cellar.

Deep ruby garnet, with black cherry, red plum and blackberry followed by violet and dried orange peel. Cedar, vanilla and clove sit alongside liquorice, tobacco and a little dried thyme. The palate is generous but composed, with ripe dark fruit, fresh acidity and fine, polished tannins. Cherry, plum and spice gradually become more savoury, with cedar, tobacco and earthy notes lingering through the finish.

Mushroom and Manchego croquetas would be a fine place to start, followed by lamb cutlets with smoked paprika, grilled pork with piquillo peppers, eggplant stuffed with tomato and herbs or a proper mushroom paella with plenty of crisp socarrat underneath. Rioja has never required complicated food to make a very good evening.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2037.