2022 Goisot Bourgogne Corps de Garde Côtes d'Auxerre Blanc, Burgundy

The 2022 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde has a bright and quite complex bouquet: scents of yellow fruit, beeswax and oily aromas–quite involving and well-defined. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry, lightly spiced, a little oily in texture. A touch of ginger appear on the aftertaste. Recommended.

90 points Neal Martin, Vinous

Chardonnay. Corps de Garde is named after the family's fourteenth century guardhouse, an underground medieval safe-house that's now part of the cellar. This Chardonnay comes from vines over 40 years old, grown on Kimmeridgian limestone with various degrees of deep clay and marls (chalky clay). No new oak here, but the wine rests for 15 to 19 months in barrels that have held one to four wines. This is so good—much deeper, more textural, more honeyed, more mineral, and longer. Epic for the price.

The Goisot family has been quietly producing some of northern Burgundy's most compelling wines for generations, working from their home in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, just southwest of Chablis. Guilhem Goisot, following the pioneering work of his parents Jean-Hugues and Ghislaine, has helped establish the domaine as a benchmark for the often overlooked Auxerrois. The family's commitment to biodynamic farming, careful vineyard management and minimal intervention in the cellar has earned them a loyal following among Burgundy enthusiasts. Corps de Garde Blanc is a wonderful example of their ability to produce Chardonnay with the character and complexity of considerably more expensive white Burgundy.

The fruit comes from vineyards in the Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre appellation, where limestone rich soils and a relatively cool northern climate provide excellent conditions for Chardonnay. Corps de Garde is a selection of carefully tended parcels, with the 2022 vintage benefiting from a warm, sunny growing season that produced ripe, generous fruit while retaining attractive freshness. Thoughtful fermentation and maturation allow the vineyard's mineral character to remain prominent, with subtle texture and richness complementing the wine's natural acidity. It is a beautifully balanced expression of northern Burgundy, combining the accessibility of the vintage with the precision and detail that have become hallmarks of the Goisot domaine.

Pale gold with a faint green glint. Fresh pear, yellow apple and ripe lemon mingle with white blossom, almond and a suggestion of wet limestone. Subtle notes of citrus peel, gentle spice and a little hazelnut emerge as the wine opens. The palate is beautifully textured, with juicy orchard fruit and lemon curd supported by refreshing acidity. There is a lovely mineral thread beneath the fruit, while a delicate creamy quality adds depth without diminishing its lively character. The finish is long and clean, leaving lingering citrus, almond and a faint saline note. A very appealing white Burgundy that combines generosity with freshness and plenty of regional character.

Grilled King George whiting with lemon butter, scallops with a light herb dressing or roast prawns with garlic would all make excellent companions. It would also be delicious with leek and Gruyère tart, creamy mushroom pasta or roasted cauliflower with almonds and parsley. Serve lightly chilled in a generous white wine glass, allowing the wine's texture and aromatic detail to develop as it warms.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. The balance of ripe fruit, lively acidity and mineral structure should allow this Chardonnay to develop attractive honeyed and nutty complexity over the next several years.