2022 Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Gueules de Loup Blanc, Burgundy

The 2022 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre Gueules de Loup has an attractive, floral bouquet. Dandelion and buttercup notes complement the scents of walnut and a touch of smoke. Fine delineation. The palate is vibrant on the entry, slightly resinous in texture, and a silver bead of acidity here. A dab of ginger enlivens the finish. Very fine.

92 points Neal Martin, Vinous

Chardonnay. Gueules de Loup is arguably the most picturesque vineyard of the Côtes d’Auxerre, named after the snapdragon flowers that flourish in its soils. This one hectare site faces south to southeast, with vines aged 40 to 60 years, rooted in Portlandian limestone scree and Barrois limestone, a geology that’s associated with structure and energy. Aged in barrel, around 20 per cent new, for 15 to 19 months, this is so floral, so seductive, so pure, with ripe peach, lime blossom and citrus pith notes and a long, sweet fruit close. Super. I could easily have guessed it was top Puligny if I had been served this blind, which should tell you everything you need to know. 

The Goisot family has spent generations proving that some of Burgundy's most interesting wines can come from well beyond its famous villages. Based in Saint Bris le Vineux, just southwest of Chablis, the estate is now guided by Guilhem Goisot, whose meticulous vineyard work and commitment to biodynamic farming have earned an enthusiastic following. Gueules de Loup, meaning wolf's mouths, is one of the domaine's distinctive single vineyard Chardonnays, a wine that demonstrates just how much character and complexity the limestone hills of the Auxerrois can produce.

The Gueules de Loup vineyard lies within the Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre appellation, where Chardonnay thrives on the region's ancient limestone and clay soils. The 2022 growing season was warm and generous, producing ripe, expressive fruit while retaining the natural acidity that gives northern Burgundy its distinctive freshness. Goisot's approach favours careful farming, gentle handling and restrained oak influence, allowing the vineyard's mineral character and subtle savoury qualities to remain clearly defined. The result is a beautifully textured white Burgundy with impressive concentration and a lovely sense of place.

Bright pale gold with delicate green reflections. Ripe lemon, yellow apple and white peach mingle with acacia blossom, toasted almond and a hint of fresh fennel. Notes of crushed limestone, subtle smoke and citrus peel emerge with air. The palate is generous yet finely balanced, with juicy orchard fruit, lemon curd and a gently creamy texture supported by lively acidity. There is a lovely chalky thread beneath the fruit, while almond, savoury spice and a faint saline quality contribute depth. The finish is long, fresh and beautifully persistent, leaving impressions of citrus, stone fruit and mineral detail.

Grilled scallops with lemon butter, roast snapper with fennel or crab linguine would all complement its texture and freshness. It would also be excellent with mushroom risotto, roast cauliflower with Parmesan or a leek and Comté tart. Serve cool rather than icy cold, allowing the wine's subtle aromatic complexity to develop as it warms slightly.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. The 2022 vintage has lovely immediate appeal, although the wine's acidity and mineral structure should support several more years of rewarding development.