2023 Goisot Chablis Faucertaine, Burgundy

Goisot produce only a tiny amount of Chablis from a single parcel in the Faucertaine climat at Bienes, just north of Chitry. These vines were planted in 1976 by the father of Goisot’s wife, Marie, and inherited in 2014. The Kimmeridgian soils of white and blue marls bring tension, finesse and a very marked minerality. Around a fifth of the barrels are new, and the wine rests on its lees for 15 to 19 months. A lovely sweet nose, with hints of mint and lemon oils, leads to a juicy, fleshy palate. Long and racy, this will be even better with 5 or 6 years’ ageing.

The Goisot family has been quietly producing some of northern Burgundy's most compelling wines for generations, working from their estate in Saint Bris le Vineux, just southwest of Chablis. Guilhem Goisot and his family have earned a devoted following for their meticulous vineyard work, biodynamic farming and wonderfully expressive wines. While the estate is best known for its Saint Bris and Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre bottlings, its Chablis reveals the same commitment to purity and vineyard character. Faucertaine is a particularly attractive expression of the region, combining classic Chablis freshness with the texture and detail that distinguish the Goisot style.

Chardonnay is grown on the limestone rich soils that define Chablis, where ancient marine sediments contribute to the region's distinctive mineral personality. The Faucertaine vineyard produces fruit with a lovely balance of concentration and natural acidity, while Goisot's careful farming and restrained winemaking allow the site to remain at the forefront. The 2023 vintage was relatively generous in Burgundy, producing ripe, expressive fruit while retaining the freshness essential to good Chablis. The result is a wine with plenty of immediate appeal, although there is enough structure and mineral character to reward a little time in the cellar.

Pale straw yellow with bright green reflections. Lemon zest, crisp green apple and white peach mingle with acacia blossom, fresh fennel and a suggestion of oyster shell. Notes of wet stone, grapefruit and subtle almond emerge as the wine opens. The palate is lively and beautifully textured, with juicy citrus and orchard fruit supported by refreshing acidity. There is an appealing chalky quality beneath the fruit, while a gentle saline edge and delicate savoury notes carry through a long, clean finish. A wonderfully satisfying Chablis that combines the generosity of the vintage with the precision and mineral character of its origins.

Fresh oysters, grilled King George whiting or prawns with lemon and olive oil would be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with scallops, crab linguine or a leek and Comté tart. Serve cool rather than icy cold, allowing its lovely texture and subtle aromatic detail to emerge.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Already expressive for its citrus freshness and mineral detail, with the structure to develop additional savoury complexity over the next several years.