2022 Heirloom Vineyards Assen's Fortalice Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

A contemporary chardonnay, on the lighter and edgier side, with considerable depth and complexity. Quince paste, truffled nuts, parmesan, vanillin oak and white peach riffs expand across an electric wire of acid. The composition, in harmony. The finish is long, consummate and impressive.

93 points Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au

Heirloom Vineyards Assen's Fortalice Chardonnay is a luxurious and finely detailed white from the high-altitude slopes of the Adelaide Hills. Named in honour of winemaker Elena Brooks’ grandmother, this wine is a tribute to both heritage and craftsmanship — a barrel-fermented Chardonnay that blends elegance with power, all shaped by the cool climate and ancient soils of the region.

The fruit is hand-picked from selected parcels and whole-bunch pressed directly to French oak barriques, a significant portion of which are new. Wild fermentation, full malolactic conversion, and extended lees ageing with regular bâtonnage contribute richness, roundness and complexity. This is not a minimal-intervention Chardonnay — it’s one made with precision and purpose, yet it still retains a sense of restraint.

On the nose, it shows aromas of lemon curd, white peach, hazelnut, struck flint and almond pastry. The palate is full and creamy, with citrus oil, grilled stone fruit and nougat layered over bright acidity and a chalky, mineral edge. It carries its oak beautifully, finishing with balance and savoury persistence.

Food pairing: perfect with roasted chicken and truffle cream, seared scallops with cauliflower purée, grilled marron, or even a rich mushroom and parmesan risotto. Also excellent with hard cheeses like aged Comté or gruyère.

Cellar potential: already expressive but will develop beautifully over 8 to 10 years, gaining savoury depth, nutty complexity and softening texture.