2022 Olivier Leflaive Santenay Rouge, Cote de Beaune

From the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay often flies under the radar, but in the right hands it delivers Pinot Noir with both generosity and a bit of structure. Olivier Leflaive approaches it with the same precision as his whites, sourcing from well placed parcels and aiming for clarity rather than heaviness.

The 2022 vintage brings a lovely mix of ripeness and freshness. Aromatics open with red cherry, raspberry and a touch of plum, lifted by rose petal and a gentle hint of spice. There is a subtle earthy note building underneath, along with a whisper of oak adding depth.

On the palate it sits in that classic medium bodied range, with fine, well shaped tannins giving the wine structure without overpowering the fruit. The texture is smooth and flowing, with red berry fruit at the core, supported by a line of acidity that keeps everything balanced. The finish carries a lightly savoury, spiced edge with a hint of earth that lingers.

Winemaking is handled with restraint, careful extraction and well judged oak allowing the vineyard character to come through without excess.

This opens up some great food options. Duck breast with a cherry glaze works beautifully, but it is just as good with something like grilled salmon with herbs, roast quail with spices, or even a tuna tataki with sesame. For vegetarian dishes, think a wild mushroom risotto, a roasted capsicum and olive tart, or a lentil and herb dish, the wine’s balance and gentle savoury notes handle those flavours with ease.

Drinking well now with a bit of air, it will continue to evolve over the next six to ten years, gaining more earthy, savoury complexity while holding its structure.