2022 Philippe Le Hardi St Aubin En Vesveau, Burgundy

Mid lemon. Frosted in 2021 and hailed in ‘23, but a good crop in 2022 instead. All in barrel with 20% new wood. I could see having even less, though note that this is still in barrel, unracked and should refine subsequently. Quite a lean, white fruited wine with good clean acidity. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Oct 2023

90 points Jasper Morris MW 

Château Philippe le Hardi carries more than six centuries of Burgundian history from its striking base in Santenay. Named for Philippe the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the estate today works vineyards across the Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise. Saint Aubin is particularly interesting territory for white Burgundy, tucked beside the far more famous vineyards of Puligny and Chassagne yet capable of producing Chardonnay with terrific mineral character and considerably less grand cru pricing drama.

En Vesveau sits high on the slopes of Saint Aubin, close to the Puligny Montrachet side of the appellation. Limestone rich soils and the cooler elevation give Chardonnay a naturally taut, citrus driven personality. The generous 2022 vintage brought excellent ripeness, but the site’s freshness keeps the wine composed, with enough flesh around its mineral backbone to make it delicious relatively young.

Pale straw gold, the bouquet opens with white peach, Meyer lemon and crisp pear, followed by citrus blossom and grapefruit oil. Fresh almond, crushed limestone and a little struck flint add savoury complexity. The palate has a lovely combination of creamy stone fruit and bright acidity, with lemon curd and pear giving way to roasted almond and gentle toast. A chalky, saline thread carries everything towards a long, clean finish.

Scallops with ginger and brown butter would be excellent here, as would steamed snapper with spring onion, lobster ravioli, chicken with tarragon and mushrooms or cauliflower roasted with hazelnuts and capers. Our pick is the scallops. Their sweetness and buttery texture against Saint Aubin’s citrus, almond and mineral bite is a very persuasive combination.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.