2022 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling GG, Mosel

Spicy aroma, wet rock, nettle, bay leaf, fresh lemons, orange zest, subtly malty. On the palate dense, substantial yet elegant, lots of mineral savouriness, creamy base, clear and vibrant acidity, juicy Riesling fruit, long on the palate, salty in the aftertaste.

94+ points falstaff.com

Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Grosses Gewächs comes from one of the Mosel’s most dramatic and revered vineyard sites, a towering south facing slope rising almost straight up from the river just outside the village of Lieser. Niederberg Helden is a vineyard of blue and grey Devonian slate, poor stony soils that force the vines to struggle and dig deep, concentrating flavour while preserving the thrilling acidity that defines elite Mosel Riesling. These are some of the steepest vineyards in Germany, worked entirely by hand, and under the guidance of Thomas Haag at Schloss Lieser they produce wines of extraordinary precision, power and mineral depth.

In the glass this GG shows a pale golden hue, opening with aromas of lime zest, white peach, green apple and crushed stone, with a subtle smoky note that comes straight from the slate soils. The palate is bone dry yet intensely flavoured, layering citrus, orchard fruit and delicate herbal tones over a taut, electric core of acidity and a long, mouthwatering mineral finish. It has the structure and concentration to age effortlessly for twenty years or more, slowly building notes of honey, toast and savoury complexity while keeping its crystalline purity. It is magnificent with seafood, roast pork, Asian spiced dishes and rich poultry, proving why Mosel Grosses Gewächs Riesling sits among the world’s great dry white wines.