2022 Villa Albergotti Chianti Riserva, Tuscany

Villa Albergotti comes from the historic wine country around Arezzo in eastern Tuscany, an area with a long tradition of Sangiovese but a rather lower profile than the famous hills of Chianti Classico. That relative anonymity can make wines such as this particularly good buying. The Riserva takes the familiar cherry and savoury character of Tuscan Sangiovese and gives it extra time to settle, soften and develop complexity.

The 2022 vintage was warm and dry across much of Tuscany, producing generous fruit and plenty of concentration. Sangiovese responds with ripe cherry and plum, but its naturally lively acidity keeps the wine moving. Riserva ageing adds another dimension, introducing tobacco and earthy spice without burying the variety’s bright red fruit.

Deep ruby moving towards garnet at the rim, with Morello cherry, red plum and dried cranberry leading the bouquet. Violet and blood orange are followed by sage, fennel seed, anise and tobacco, with touches of leather and terracotta underneath. The palate is medium bodied and savoury, its ripe cherry fruit balanced by brisk acidity and firm, dusty tannins. Dried orange, tobacco and earthy spice linger through a satisfyingly dry finish.

Pappardelle with duck ragù would be superb, alongside pork and fennel sausages with white beans, veal cotoletta, porcini risotto or baked eggplant with tomato and pecorino. Our pick is the sausages and beans, finished with plenty of sage and good olive oil. Simple Tuscan food and Sangiovese rarely need much assistance from us.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.