2022 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Les Folatières, Burgundy

From Ez Folatières, purchased as must. A lime streak runs through the mid yellow colour. This has notable density of bouquet without showing much detail yet. More substantial than the racy Pucelles, but retaining its own lively character behind the substantial flesh. Dense, generous, and with class. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Nov 2023.

93-96 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Perched high on the Puligny slope, Les Folatières brings that classic combination of lift, detail and quiet intensity, and Vincent Girardin’s restrained, terroir focused style lets it shine. With a long history in Burgundy and a more recent shift toward lighter handling in the cellar, Girardin now captures more precision and clarity from sites like this.

The 2022 vintage carries a touch more ripeness while still holding its line. Aromatics open with lemon zest, grapefruit and white peach, layered with a gentle floral lift. There is a subtle savoury thread, almond, hazelnut and a hint of spice, alongside a clear chalky, flinty character that defines the wine.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a seamless, refined texture, but driven by a firm line of acidity that gives the wine energy. Citrus and stone fruit sit at the core, supported by well judged oak that adds depth without weight. The finish is long and mineral, with a lightly saline, savoury edge that lingers.

Girardin’s winemaking is precise and controlled, careful pressing and thoughtful élevage allowing the vineyard’s character to come through cleanly.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with both delicacy and richness. Think grilled lobster with lemon butter, seared scallops, or a whole roast fish with fennel and herbs. It also works beautifully with dishes like crab linguine, prawn and saffron risotto, or even a simple roast chicken, where the wine’s texture and acidity keep everything in balance.

Drinking beautifully now with some air, it will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years, gaining more complexity while holding its shape.