2023 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Les Folatières, Cote de Beaune

6 barrels from several different sources. Attractive mid yellow. A little bit of sunshine while staying fresh. This is very even handed, with a fine tensile strength, once again the mineral aspect at the finish, and considerable length. Some other versions could dig deeper. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024.

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

High on the slope above the village, Les Folatières is one of Puligny Montrachet’s most complete Premier Cru sites, combining lift, detail and a quiet power. Vincent Girardin’s more terroir focused approach suits it perfectly, working with a lighter touch to let the vineyard’s natural precision and mineral line come through.

The 2023 vintage shows a beautiful sense of balance. Aromatics are finely layered, lemon zest, grapefruit and green apple with white peach adding a softer edge. There is a subtle floral lift and a gentle savoury note, almond, hazelnut and a hint of spice, with a clear chalky, flinty character running through it.

On the palate it is medium bodied but intense, with a firm line of acidity giving the wine drive and length. Citrus sits at the core, supported by a refined texture from lees work, before the wine tightens into a long, mineral finish with a lightly saline edge. It feels focused and energetic, very much about precision.

Girardin’s winemaking is measured and controlled, careful pressing, restrained oak and thoughtful élevage, allowing the vineyard to express itself without excess.

This is a brilliant match for seafood that leans toward purity and finesse. Think oysters, scallop crudo or grilled whiting with herbs. It also works beautifully with dishes like prawn and chilli pasta, a simple roast chicken with thyme, or a zucchini and herb tart, where the wine’s acidity and mineral line keep everything lifted.

Drinking beautifully now with some air, it will reward patience over the next ten to fifteen years, developing more nutty, savoury complexity while holding its structure.