2022 Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz, Yarra Valley

From a shiraz vineyard planted in 1973 adjacent to Yarra Yering. A vivid crimson purple colour, a mix of whole-bunch and berry fermentation and maturation in large format French oak. This is a glorious shiraz, bursting with life and what will surely be a 40-year life span, so perfectly framed and balanced are its black cherry and blackberry fruit duo, tannins obediently bending the knee to the fruit.

98 points Special Value James Halliday winecompanioin.com.au

Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz is a single vineyard Shiraz grown on the estate’s eastern block, known as the Underhill vineyard, planted in 1973. Unlike the Dry Red No.2 (a more Northern Rhône inspired blend), Underhill is 100 percent Shiraz — and very much about Yarra Valley terroir. It’s a cool-climate Shiraz of restraint, perfume and tension, with trademark black pepper and violet notes over an earthy, mineral core.

Fruit is hand-picked and fermented in open vessels with a mix of whole bunch and whole berry, then matured in seasoned French oak puncheons for 12 to 15 months. The oak influence is subtle, letting the fruit and site speak.

In the glass, it shows lifted aromas of plum, black cherry, lavender, pepper and smoked meat, with hints of ironstone and forest floor. The palate is mid-weight and savoury, with fine tannins, bright acidity and a long, pepper-laced finish. It’s elegant, built for the long haul, and increasingly recognised as one of Australia’s best cool-climate Shiraz expressions.

Food pairing: ideal with roast duck, lamb with olive tapenade, eggplant parmigiana or mushroom and thyme pie. It also pairs beautifully with washed rind cheeses or aged alpine styles.

Cellar potential: best from 2027 to 2042. Will develop more spice, earth and gaminess with age.