2023 Amisfield Fumé Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago

As its name suggests, the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé is a smokey, barrel-fermented style. It has plentiful concentration and grilled nut flavours atop pure, clean fruit. The variety's fruity nature has been tamed to present restrained nectarine and citrus, so the oak and fruit feel nicely balanced. The finish is bright and citrus-y with good length and a reassuring firmness. Youthful but well considered, the 2023 will continue to drink well for at least another five years. Drink 2026 2032

93 points Rebecca Gibb for Vinous, February 2026

Subtle vanilla bean and sweet spice signal a barrel fermented style of sauvignon. Lots of complexity and interest on the palate so that there are layers of flavour and texture woven through the greengage, pink apple and pear fruit. This helps to create a satisfying, engaging wine. Drink 2026–2029

91 points Jane Skilton MW for The Real Review, January 2026

Aromas of preserved lemons, hazelnuts, grapefruit and kaffir limes. The palate is light- to medium-bodied with high-tension acidity and generous texture. Well-balanced. Drink now. 

91 points James Suckling, February 2025

The Fumé name is the signal that this Amisfield wine is a slightly different take on Sauvignon Blanc. This is organic Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc treated with the same respect as Pinot Noir in the region.

The fruit comes from the lower terrace of the Amisfield estate in Pisa, where gravelly Lochar soils naturally restrict yields and produce small, concentrated berries with high natural acidity.

Hand harvested and whole bunch pressed, the juice settles in tank before transferring to French oak barriques — 20% new — for wild fermentation. Partial malolactic fermentation adds a creamy thread without softening the acidity before the wine rests for sixteen months on lees with minimal disturbance before bottling.

The result is a lovely wine with weight and complexity. Pale gold, the nose shows ripe peach, stone fruit and white flowers with subtle slate, fennel and a gentle smoky thread from the oak. The palate is full-bodied and textural with vibrant acidity, hazelnut and citrus complexity and a long, mineral-driven finish. Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc treated with the same seriousness as Pinot Noir from the same region.

Lean towards food that you’d serve with Chardonnay: scallops, crab, steamed chicken. Should be really nice with mature soft cheese too.

Drink now through 2028.