2023 Anderson & Marsh Parell Tempranillo, Alpine Valleys

The ultimate friends' wine project where half is made by Eleana Anderson at Mayford, half by Jo Marsh at Billy Button Wines, and the two halves are then blended. Superlative stuff! Gorgeous fruit, kudos to the growers, lays an elegant framework that bestows real class and complexity. Defines the grape in fine herbals, light florals, red and black berry fruits, earth and signature red licorice. A light layering of vanillin oak and fine tannins adds that extra tick of refinement. It's going to age well.

96 points Special Value Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion

Anderson & Marsh is the collaboration between Eleana Anderson and Jo Marsh, two winemakers with a strong connection to Victoria’s north east and a shared interest in varieties that suit its mountain climate. Parell, meaning “pair” in Catalan, is a fitting name for the project. Tempranillo is particularly comfortable in the Alpine Valleys, where warm days develop flavour while cool nights help keep the fruit fresh and the wine lively.

The 2023 season was relatively cool and drawn out, giving Tempranillo plenty of time to develop flavour without pushing towards excessive ripeness. The Alpine Valleys can give the variety a distinctly fresher expression than the richer styles of warmer Australian regions, with cherry and plum joined by spice, herbs and an appealing savoury edge.

Deep ruby crimson, the bouquet opens with black cherry, red plum and raspberry before violet, dried thyme and fennel seed appear. There are touches of liquorice, sweet tobacco, paprika and black tea underneath. The palate is medium bodied and supple, with juicy cherry and plum wrapped in fine, slightly grainy tannins. Orange peel and earthy spice tighten the middle before a dry finish of red fruit, tobacco and anise.

Chorizo and chickpeas with smoked paprika would be right at home here, alongside lamb skewers with romesco, chargrilled pork with quince glaze, mushroom croquetas or patatas bravas with smoky aioli. Our pick is the chorizo and chickpeas. Paprika, tomato and spicy sausage against Tempranillo’s cherry, tobacco and savoury character makes the whole thing feel suspiciously easy.