2023 Anselmi I Capitelli IGT Half Bottle 375ml, Veneto

Anselmi I Capitelli IGT from Veneto is one of Italy’s most captivating and luxurious sweet wines, crafted by Roberto Anselmi, the visionary who reshaped the reputation of Soave by focusing on low yields, high quality hillside vineyards and obsessive attention to detail. I Capitelli is his crowning achievement: a late harvested, air dried Garganega grown on steep volcanic and limestone slopes around Monteforte d’Alpone. Only the ripest, healthiest bunches are selected, then placed in small crates to dry slowly in the fruttaio, concentrating sugars, aromatics and acidity. The result is a wine that combines richness with breathtaking freshness, sweetness with lift, and indulgence with structure.

The aromatics are dazzling. Apricot nectar, dried peach, candied citrus peel and honeyed pear unfold alongside mango, quince and golden sultana. Subtle notes of almond, chamomile, jasmine, vanilla bean and sweet spice rise from the glass, while beneath it all lies a mineral hum drawn from the volcanic soils. As it opens, layers of orange blossom, fig, marzipan and caramelised apple deepen the bouquet.

The palate is luxurious, viscous and beautifully poised. Intense flavours of apricot, peach compote, marmalade, ripe pear and mango cascade across a silky, honey laden texture, lifted by bright acidity that prevents any heaviness. The interplay of sweetness and freshness is extraordinary. Notes of citrus zest, dried herbs, almond cream and delicate spice glide into a long, glowing finish filled with stone fruit, honeycomb and a clean mineral edge. Though gorgeous young, it ages effortlessly for a decade or more, gaining complexity reminiscent of dried fruit, brûléed citrus, saffron and roasted nuts.

A perfect partner for blue cheese, foie gras, panna cotta with citrus, fruit tarts, almond cakes, ginger desserts, roasted figs, tiramisu, soft cow’s milk cheeses or simply sipped slowly at the end of a meal. It also shines with spicy Asian dishes where sweetness and acidity meet perfectly.