2023 Argyros Assyrtikos, Santorini

Argyros Assyrtiko from Santorini is a benchmark example of what makes this grape and island so captivating. Domaine Argyros, founded in 1903 and now run by fourth-generation winemaker Matthew Argyros, farms some of the oldest ungrafted vines in the Mediterranean. These gnarled, low-yielding vines grow in Santorini’s otherworldly soils made up of volcanic ash, lava, and pumice stone. This is one of the most extreme viticultural environments on earth, and the results are extraordinary.

The vines are trained in the traditional kouloura style, a coiled basket shape designed to protect grapes from Santorini’s punishing winds and conserve precious moisture in this dry, sunbaked landscape. Everything is done by hand. The yields are tiny. The character is immense. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel using native yeasts to allow the vineyard to speak clearly. There is no oak, no cosmetic winemaking. Just the raw, stony truth of place.

This wine opens with a blast of crushed seashells, lemon oil, white grapefruit, and wet rocks. There are nuances of thyme, white pepper, jasmine, and salted almond, all wrapped around a tense, coiled core. The palate is electric, driven by searing acidity and a mouthwatering mineral edge. It is textured without being heavy, savoury without being austere. The saltiness lingers like a sea breeze on sun-warmed stone.

Argyros Assyrtiko is a natural match for seafood of all kinds. Try it with grilled octopus, sea bream crudo, oysters, or pasta tossed with bottarga and lemon. It also works beautifully with roasted chicken, fried zucchini flowers, or a simple tomato salad with capers and herbs. The structure and acid line give it the ability to age, evolving with time into something richer and more layered while keeping its volcanic precision.

This is not just a white wine. It is a window into one of the world’s most unique wine regions and a masterclass in how place, tradition, and restraint can produce something unforgettable.