2023 Bernard Defaix Chablis Organic, Burgundy

This is aromatically quite similar to the Petit Chablis but with more evident iodine character. The delicious and vibrant if again not especially dense flavors exude a subtle minerality on the precise and youthfully austere finale that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity. This is quite good and worth a look. Top Value

89-91 points burghound.com Drink 2028+

Screwcap. Defaix’s village Chablis is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30-plus-year-old vines situated around Milly and Poinchy on the left bank of the Serein River. The wine ferments spontaneously and ages on fine lees for 10 months in glass-lined tanks. Compared to the wine above, the older vines translate to more character, depth and classical restraint—not to mention supersized minerality and ozone salinity. It’s a ripe, poised and vibrantly fresh Chablis with juicy nectarine, mixed citrus fruit and stony, pithy freshness running the length of the palate. A terrific, super seductive Chablis and another outstanding-value wine from Domaine Bernard Defaix. We encourage you to take Jasper’s advice! Screwcap.

The history of Domaine Bernard Defaix begins with Bernard Defaix. Bernard belonged to the fourth generation of a vine growing family. In 1959, he started the venture for the winery with two hectares of land. At that time, the newly discovered technique of protecting the vineyards from spring frosts circulated throughout the wine industry. This system allowed the winery and other winegrowers to have a minimum harvest per year. The technique gradually allowed the trade markets to develop and attain stability. 

In recent times, the domain of the winery stretches and extends over 26 hectares. It includes Petit Chablis, Chablis, and Chablis Premier Cru. Bernard and Monique, his wife, had gradually acquired these plots over time and added them under Domaine Bernard Defaix. Their tireless efforts enriched the condition of the winery, taking it to the level it is now at and displays. 

For about the last 20 years, Bernard’s two sons, Didier and Sylvain, have taken over the operations and management of Domaine Bernard Defaix. Sylvain takes care of vinification and ageing, bottling, and preparation of the wines. On the other hand, Didier is in charge of the care and maintenance of the vineyards, marketing, sales, domain, and accounting. Didier’s wife, Helene, looks after the commercial and administrative aspects of the winery. 

Domaine Bernard Defaix follows an organic, ecological, and sustainable system of farming and agriculture. The workers in the vineyards maintain the quality and condition of the soil through extensive yet controlled ploughing. They implement means to aerate the land so that even the roots of the grapevines embedded deep inside can get oxygen supply. The ploughing also ensures that the slopping plots do not experience erosion at any time. This unique and concrete approach to growing the grapevines ensures that the harvested grapes become the highest quality.