2023 BK Wines Gower Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills

Smoke and sparkler flint, pomegranate and red cherry, with cured meats and some herby Campari-esque bitterness. Light on its feet and fresh, yet the bones grippy, and it's this interplay of grain and vitality that I find thoroughly enjoyable as it unfurls. Its reductive nature does obscure some of the aromas from view; be patient and give it some breathing space.

92 points Katrina Butler winecompanion.com

BK Wines Gower Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills is pure personality in a glass. Grown on a steep single vineyard site near Lenswood, this wine doesn’t try to imitate Burgundy or play it safe—it brings a wild, expressive energy that’s become the hallmark of Brendon Keys and his much-loved label. The Gower vineyard, with its elevation and cool climate, delivers Pinot with perfume, structure, and plenty of edge.

Brendon, a former chef turned winemaker, approaches Pinot Noir like an artist more than a technician. He allows the vineyard to lead the conversation, working with whole bunches, wild fermentation, and ageing in old French oak to build texture and savoury nuance without stripping the wine of its natural vibrancy.

Gower Pinot is always a little untamed in its youth, and that’s part of its charm. Aromas leap out of the glass—think sour cherry, rhubarb, dried herbs, forest floor, and a flick of spicy whole-bunch funk. The palate is silky but energetic, with fine tannins and a tangy acid line that makes it equally at home at the table or solo in the glass.

It’s the kind of Pinot that doesn’t whisper, it talks—sometimes loud, sometimes poetic, always interesting. Best with roast duck, grilled mushrooms, or anything involving a smoky barbecue.