2023 David Moret Rully Blanc, Burgundy

David Moret has built a small but highly regarded micro négociant business in Beaune, concentrating almost entirely on white Burgundy. Rather than owning a large domaine, he works with carefully sourced fruit and must from growers across the region, producing tiny quantities with a particularly sure hand for Chardonnay. Rully is a natural fit for his style, delivering the limestone freshness of the Côte Chalonnaise without the increasingly alarming prices attached to the grander villages farther north.

Rully’s Chardonnay vineyards sit on clay and limestone slopes, and the 2023 vintage brought ripe, expressive fruit with enough freshness to keep the wines lively. Moret’s approach adds texture and subtle oak without burying the fruit, giving this more substance than a simple regional white while preserving the citrus and mineral character that makes good Rully so appealing.

Pale straw gold, the bouquet opens with white peach, crisp pear and Meyer lemon, followed by honeysuckle and grapefruit zest. Fresh almond, a little hazelnut, struck flint and warm brioche emerge with air. The palate is supple and gently creamy, with peach and lemon curd through the middle, sharpened by fresh acidity and a chalky mineral edge. Almond and restrained toast add savoury detail before a clean, saline finish of citrus and crushed stone.

At the table, think crab and ginger dumplings, grilled king prawns with lemon butter, scallops with cauliflower purée, roast chicken with tarragon or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta. Our pick is the crab dumplings. Sweet crab, ginger and delicate wrappers alongside the citrus, creamy texture and mineral snap of Rully Blanc should be an absolute cracker.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.