2023 Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pure, Southern Rhone

All Grenache from Grand Pierre, Pointu, and Rayas from very old vines and brought up in a single foudre, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape Pure shows kirsch, blackberries, savory Provençal herbs, pepper, and scorched earth. It's medium-bodied, with a nicely concentrated, layered mouthfeel, remarkable purity, and ripe yet building tannins. This has a Vosne-Romanée-like style that is incredibly impressive and will drink well for two decades. Drink 2025-2045.

95 points Jeb Dunnuck

Domaine La Barroche has become one of the most compelling names in modern Châteauneuf du Pape, although the family’s roots here stretch back centuries. The domaine is run by siblings Julien and Laetitia Barrot, with Julien responsible for the winemaking. Pure is their extraordinary tribute to Grenache, made in tiny quantities and now one of the most sought after wines in the cellar.

Pure comes from a single parcel of exceptionally old Grenache vines in Grand Pierre, planted on deep sandy soils in the north of the appellation. Some vines are more than a century old, and the combination of age, tiny yields and sand gives remarkable concentration without the heaviness you might expect. The 2023 vintage suits Pure beautifully, with ripe fruit and perfume supported by enough freshness to keep all that old vine intensity moving.

Luminous ruby crimson rather than opaque, with wild raspberry, ripe strawberry and Morello cherry pouring from the glass. Violet and lavender follow, then blood orange, fennel seed, anise and cracked pepper. With air come dried thyme and warm earth. The palate is remarkably concentrated yet almost weightless, with intensely pure red fruit flowing through silky tannins and fresh acidity. Raspberry, orange peel, liquorice and spice continue through an exceptionally long, fragrant finish.

Charred octopus with saffron, tomato and white beans has enough flavour without burying the Grenache. Duck with blood orange, lamb cutlets with rosemary, smoky eggplant with tahini or grilled mushrooms with garlic and thyme are equally tempting. 

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2045+.