2023 Faiveley Clos De Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy

A slightly brighter ruby colour. Fresher and more precise fruit, more raspberry than strawberry, medium-bodied, all in red fruit, with good grip to finish. A cut above the Echezeaux today. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.

93-95 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Clos de Vougeot is one of Burgundy’s most historic Grand Crus, a vast walled vineyard with origins tracing back to the Cistercian monks. Faiveley holds parcels across the clos, and under Erwan Faiveley the focus has shifted toward clarity and structure, aiming to express the site with precision rather than weight alone.

The 2023 leans into both depth and detail. The aromatics sit in the darker register, black cherry, plum and blackberry layered with violet, spice and a touch of forest floor. There’s a quiet power here, not immediately explosive, more something that builds with air.

Give it time and it starts to open out, clove, dried herbs and a faint earthy note emerging, along with a subtle mineral edge. Oak is present but well absorbed, adding a bit of frame and polish.

Structure is the backbone. Tannins are firm and tightly woven, giving the wine shape and ageing potential, while acidity keeps everything aligned and moving. The fruit sits deep within that structure, leading into a long, savoury finish that carries on with spice, dark fruit and a stony note.

This is a wine that really benefits from the right food. Slow cooked beef, duck with earthy elements or even something like a mushroom and truffle pithivier all work beautifully. There’s enough depth to handle richness, but also enough detail to match more refined dishes.

Still very young and best with a decant, it will reward patience over fifteen to twenty years as it softens and develops further layers.