2023 Faiveley Clos des Issarts Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru, Burgundy

Clos des Issarts is a tiny, walled Premier Cru in the heart of Gevrey Chambertin, a monopole that Faiveley has farmed for generations. It sits in a slightly warmer pocket, which often brings a bit more generosity to the fruit, though the house style keeps things controlled and structured, very much in the Gevrey mould.

The 2023 opens with a darker, more grounded profile. Black cherry, plum and wild raspberry come through first, followed by violet, spice and a touch of liquorice. There’s a savoury edge already there, a hint of earth and something gently smoky that builds with air.

Give it time and it starts to show more layers, clove, dried herbs and a faint gamey note creeping in, adding depth without losing clarity. Oak is present but well integrated, adding shape rather than dominating.

There’s a firm frame here, tannins are fine but persistent, holding the fruit in place and giving the wine a sense of structure. Acidity threads through, keeping everything balanced and lifting the darker fruit profile. The finish is long and savoury, with spice, earth and a subtle mineral line lingering.

This is a great one for dishes with both richness and earth. Duck with lentils, slow braised beef or a mushroom and truffle dish all work beautifully. It also pairs surprisingly well with things like roasted beetroot with herbs or a lentil and root vegetable stew, where the wine’s savoury side really connects.

Still young and best with a decant, it has the structure to age comfortably for ten to fifteen years, gradually opening into something more layered and complex.