2023 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Pinot Noir of the Year.

Named after the Applejack eucalypts that surround the vineyard, which was planted at Gladysdale in 1997 by Ray Guerin. Seven clones comprising 114, 115, MV6, D2V5, D5V15, Pommard and Abel. Whole bunches (40%) and 20–25% new French barriques. 2022 was a hard act to follow, but this superb wine gives it a shake. Exotic, aromatic and pure with its bouquet of wild strawberries, dark cherries, quince, spices and flowers. Densley packed, this saturates the palate, but, as always, it's light on its feet at the same time. Seamless tannins round out another benchmark for what's already a benchmark wine.

98 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au August 2024

Limit 6 Bottles per person

Location: Gladysdale Planted: 1997 Elevation: 300 metres Soil type: Grey clay loam over black (basalt) volcanic base Aspect: East facing slopes Size: 12.5 Hectares Applejack Vineyard is a special site, located on a dramatic slope in the upper Yarra Valley. It was planted by respected viticulturist Ray Guerin in 1997. The basalt based underlying volcanic soil and rock produce a characteristically fine yet extended, spicy and firm palate. The higher altitude results in a cooler and extended growing season, ideally suited to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (3-4 weeks later than central Yarra Valley). This vineyard is a special location for Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley – its eastern aspect means the sun rises to warm and dry out the vineyard in the morning, but the vines are sheltered from the afternoon heat from the temperate rainforest that surrounds it. The earthen flavours combined with fine tannins, intense flavour and texture on the palate shows us the quality of the site for world class Pinot Noir.