2023 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Les Preuses Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Pale and strict from tank, then add the oak which works well together on this terroir. Love the cashmere on the stones, a perfect integration of mineral acidity with well-balanced fruit. Picked at the right time. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Jul 2024 

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW

This seductive grand cru boasts pronounced high-toned citrus fruit with notes of lime peel and pomelo accented with a pronounced chalky mineral note. The aromas are youthful and tightly wound, yet one has the sense that, with time, they will open beautifully. The texture is lively and silky, with a lovely balance between fresh acidity and substance. The grapes are from an impressively large 2.3ha south-facing parcel at the top of the grand cru slope. Tasted blind, this wine was a standout; it will be best after five years in bottle and will last another 20.

93 points Charles Curtis MW, Decanter

Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre come from families deeply rooted in Chablis, with the Fèvre name connected to the region for generations. Their domaine is based in Fontenay près Chablis, where Gilles looks after the vineyards and Nathalie, an oenologist, leads the winemaking. Their holdings stretch from village Chablis through Premier Cru to a precious parcel of Les Preuses, putting this firmly at the summit of their cellar.

Les Preuses occupies the gentler northern end of the Grand Cru hillside, between Vaudésir and Bougros. Its Chardonnay is rooted in classic Kimmeridgian limestone and fossil rich marl, but the site often produces a particularly elegant, perfumed expression of Grand Cru Chablis rather than sheer power. The 2023 vintage brought generous ripeness, and Preuses counters that richness beautifully with mineral tension and the cool, saline character that makes great Chablis so compelling.

Luminous pale gold, initially showing lemon, white peach and pear before grapefruit and delicate blossom emerge. Oyster shell, crushed chalk and fresh almond follow, with fennel and subtle smoke adding complexity. The palate is concentrated yet graceful, with stone fruit and lemon oil carried by bright acidity and a fine mineral spine. Preserved citrus, chalk and a distinctly saline note build slowly through the long, precise finish.

Roast turbot with a restrained beurre blanc gives the wine enough richness to work against, while grilled marron, king crab, scallops with cauliflower or a delicate leek and Comté tart would keep things equally elegant. Les Preuses is not a Chardonnay that needs culinary fireworks. Give it good seafood, a large glass and plenty of time to unfold.

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2043+.