2023 Oakridge 864 Block Drive Funder & Diamond Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

From the Funder & Diamond vineyard, planted in Wandin East in '90. The '22 is the reigning Halliday Wine of the Year and this is, as you'd suspect, a worthy successor. With its bouquet of white nectarine, pink grapefruit and traces of sea spray and piercing, perfectly structured palate, this is more tightly coiled, at this stage, than the 864 Henk Chardonnay. It may prove to be more long lived, too. Those who have both will have a ton of fun comparing them over the next decade or more.

98 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Oakridge 864 Block Drive Funder and Diamond Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley is a strikingly pure and beautifully chiselled single vineyard wine, shaped by one of the region’s most quietly outstanding Chardonnay sites. The Funder and Diamond vineyard sits in the cool Upper Yarra near Woori Yallock, an area prized for long ripening seasons, bright natural acidity and a delicately perfumed fruit profile. Block Drive is a precise slice of this vineyard, planted on deep volcanic red soils and pockets of ancient mudstone. These soils create a Chardonnay with remarkable linearity, mineral tension and a sense of refinement that has become a signature of the Oakridge 864 series.

The wine has earned consistent acclaim from leading Australian critics who celebrate its poise, detail and its ability to combine richness with an almost crystalline brightness. Year after year, Block Drive brings home high scores and glowing reviews, praised for its sleek energy, its subtle savoury layers and its ability to age with real authority. The 864 range has become a benchmark for cool climate Australian Chardonnay and this bottling is one of its stars.

The winemaking is deliberately transparent. Grapes are whole bunch pressed with great delicacy to protect aromatics. Wild yeast fermentation takes place in French oak, overwhelmingly seasoned, allowing the vineyard rather than the barrel to take the lead. The wine then rests on its lees for many months, gaining quiet complexity, gentle plushness and savoury depth. Nothing is rushed. Nothing is pushed. The result is a Chardonnay with clarity and sophistication.

The nose unfurls slowly, opening with lemon zest, grapefruit oil and white peach supported by jasmine, almond skin and a fine mineral glow. A gentle struck stone character sits in the background, never loud, just enough to bring tension. Over time the bouquet expands into fennel seed, warm pastry and faint hazelnut, each new detail unfolding with calm precision.

On the palate, the wine moves with equal grace. A tight line of citrus sets the pace, flowing into flavours of peach skin, pear, green apple and soft florals. The texture is beautifully refined, carrying a chalky, powder like feel that reflects the vineyard’s volcanic soils. Lees ageing brings a subtle savoury creaminess and depth without compromising the wine’s drive. The finish is long and silken with lingering citrus, river stone minerality and a confident sense of structure. Cellaring will be richly rewarded. Eight to twelve years will reveal honeyed layers, roasted nuts and deeper savoury tones while maintaining the wine’s spine of freshness.

It thrives alongside refined dishes such as seared scallops, roast chicken with tarragon, grilled whiting, creamy mushroom dishes, sushi, lobster with lemon butter, soft cheeses, vegetable gnocchi or simple pasta dressed with herbs and citrus. Its balance of elegance and quiet power makes it wonderfully adaptable at the table.