2023 Oakridge 864 Henk Aqueduct Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

While the Hazeldene Pinot ultimately got the chocolates at last year's Yarra Valley Wine Show, both Henk pinots got golds, and my gut feeling is that these may end up out living and outshining the trophy winner. Regardless, even now, this is a brilliant 864 Pinot. An extraordinarily scented bouquet of red and blue fruits, crushed red rose petals and a little animale, even. Low yields have helped produce a wine that's both concentrated and textured with just the right amount of ripe, persistent tannins and bright acidity. The finish goes on for quite some time and you just know that a long and productive life is a given.

98 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Oakridge 864 Henk Aqueduct Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley is one of the estate’s most precise, haunting and site driven expressions of Pinot Noir, drawn from the revered Henk Vineyard in Woori Yallock. This corner of the Upper Yarra is a cool, misty pocket where Pinot ripens slowly and delicately, developing aromatic purity and fine boned structure. The Aqueduct block sits on ancient volcanic clays and siltstone with a generous scatter of quartz and ironstone, soils that give the wine its lifted perfume, mineral line and long, elegant tannins. The combination of altitude, southerly exposure and deep soils creates fruit that feels both ethereal and quietly powerful, making this one of the standout single vineyard Pinot Noirs in Oakridge’s flagship 864 series.

The winemaking is intensely detailed yet beautifully restrained. Grapes are hand picked in small batches and fermented with a carefully judged proportion of whole bunches to build aromatic lift, spice and structural finesse. Ferments are plunged delicately to avoid heaviness, preserving the purity of the fruit. Maturation takes place in French oak, mostly older barrels, chosen to frame the wine without disrupting its cool climate delicacy. This minimal, ultra precise approach allows the Henk Aqueduct block to express itself with clarity, producing a Pinot Noir that feels seamless, poised and deeply reflective of its site.

In the glass it shows a bright, translucent ruby colour. The nose is wonderfully aromatic with red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry drifting over rose petals, cranberry, orange zest and fine spice. Beneath the brightness lie subtle earthy tones of forest floor, dried herbs, crushed quartz and a gentle smoky mineral note that speaks directly to the Henk soils. As the wine opens, hints of pomegranate, sandalwood and faint cocoa add quiet depth.

The palate is silky, balanced and exquisitely detailed. Juicy red fruits glide across fine, powdery tannins with lively acidity providing line and clarity. Flavours of cherry, redcurrant, strawberry compote and gentle spice build through a refined mid palate, joined by herbal nuances and a cool mineral edge. Everything is measured and harmonious, finishing long, fresh and delicately savoury with lingering red fruit and floral lift. It is a wine of finesse rather than weight, and it will develop beautifully over eight to ten years as savoury and truffle like notes emerge.

Pair it with roast duck with citrus glaze, mushroom and thyme risotto, herb roasted chicken, pork fillet, grilled salmon, charcuterie, soft cheeses or earthy vegetable dishes. Its elegance makes it an outstanding food wine.