2023 Oakridge Hazeldene Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

From '98 plantings of MV6 at Gladysdale. The fact that this was The James Halliday Wine of Show at last year's Yarra Valley Wine Show, beating the Hazeldene Chardonnay in the process, says it all. Perfumed and captivating aromas of red fruits, dark rose and a little whole-bunched-derived sous bois. Medium bodied, this silky-textured wine finishes with just the right amount of understated and persistent tannins. Irresistible now and, I'd imagine, over the next six to eight years plus.

97 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Oakridge Hazeldene Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley is a beautifully lifted and finely woven expression of cool climate Pinot, shaped by the high altitude Hazeldene site in the Upper Yarra. This vineyard is one of Oakridge’s most characterful parcels, planted on volcanic red soils mixed with ancient mudstone that give the wine its aromatic brightness, fine tannin structure and a distinctive mineral thread. The cooler temperatures of the Upper Yarra encourage slow ripening and superb natural acidity, allowing the fruit to build perfume and delicacy rather than power. Oakridge’s focus on precise single vineyard expression makes this cuvée a standout for lovers of elegant, site driven Pinot Noir.

Winemaking is gentle and highly attentive. The fruit is hand picked at optimal ripeness and fermented in small open top vats with a tailored proportion of whole bunches to build complexity, spice and aromatic lift. Extraction is soft, relying on delicate plunging to protect texture and purity. The wine is then matured in French oak, mostly seasoned, so that the vineyard’s personality remains at the forefront. Oakridge’s approach ensures the wine retains its cool climate vitality while gaining subtle layers and finesse through careful élevage.

In the glass it sits a translucent ruby with garnet hues. The nose is beautifully perfumed with wild strawberry, red cherry and raspberry at its core lifted by rose petals, pomegranate, orange zest and a hint of savoury spice. Underneath the fruit lie gentle earthy notes of forest floor, dried herbs and crushed stone, echoing the high country soils of Hazeldene. As the wine opens, nuances of cranberry, sandalwood and a faint cocoa note add depth.

The palate is supple, bright and wonderfully balanced. Juicy red berries glide across the tongue supported by fine, powdery tannins and lively acidity that brings clarity and drive. Flavours of cherry, redcurrant, strawberry compote and subtle spice unfold through a silky mid palate, joined by delicate herbal tones and a cool mineral line. The finish is long, fresh and quietly savoury with lingering red fruit and elegant spice. This is a Pinot Noir that offers immediate charm yet has the structure to develop further complexity over six to eight years.

Pair it with roasted duck, herb rubbed chicken, mushroom risotto, pork fillet, grilled salmon, soft cheeses, gnocchi with sage butter or earthy vegetarian dishes. Its finesse and brightness give it tremendous versatility at the table.