2023 Oakridge 864 Henk Vineyard Aqueduct Block Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

From the highest section at Henk, around 260m. Whole-bunch pressed to 500L French puncheons (20% new), wild-yeast fermented, matured for 10 months on lees. With its pure and precise bouquet of perfectly ripened white peaches and pears, confit lemon and just a hint of pure acacia honey, this is unmistakably great from the first whiff. Beautifully balanced and structured, this flows effortlessly across the palate. Absolute top of the tops and destined to be long lived.

98 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Oakridge 864 Henk Vineyard Aqueduct Block Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley is one of the most celebrated cool climate Chardonnays in Australia, a wine that critics return to vintage after vintage for its precision, purity and sculpted power. The Henk Vineyard sits in Woori Yallock, a cool, misty pocket of the Upper Yarra that has quietly become one of the region’s greatest sites. The Aqueduct Block is a tiny, carefully farmed parcel on volcanic clays and ancient siltstone threaded with quartz. These soils give the wine its signature mineral cut, while the high altitude and long ripening season build tension, length and extraordinary aromatic definition.

This cuvée has earned a reputation as one of Oakridge’s finest achievements. It regularly receives top scores from Australia’s leading wine writers, praised for its restraint, complexity and Burgundian finesse. The combination of site, precision farming and Oakridge’s ultra detailed winemaking has led to numerous trophies and consistently glowing reviews, cementing its status as a benchmark for modern Australian Chardonnay.

The winemaking shows extraordinary attention to detail. Whole bunch pressing protects delicacy and purity. Wild fermentation unfolds in French oak, almost all seasoned, chosen to frame the wine without weighing it down. Lees contact is long and patient, building texture and savoury nuance, though stirring is gentle to preserve clarity. The style leans toward flint, citrus and mineral drive rather than butter or overt oak, embracing a restrained, finely etched expression that reflects the Upper Yarra at its best.

Aromatics are refined and deeply layered. Lemon zest, white peach and grapefruit mingle with notes of crushed quartz, almond skin, subtle white florals and a faint struck match flicker. As the wine relaxes in the glass, quiet complexities emerge: fennel pollen, hazelnut, nougat, brioche and cool river stone. Everything feels perfectly aligned, nothing overstated, each aroma adding nuance without clouding the sense of place.

The flavours unfold with extraordinary balance. Citrus brightness stretches from start to finish, supported by peach skin, green apple, pear and delicate stone fruit succulence. A fine chalk dust texture runs through the mid palate, shaped by long lees ageing and the block’s volcanic soils. Gentle savoury notes of almond, spice and flint weave through the fruit, creating depth without heaviness. Acidity is crystalline, carrying the wine toward a long, saline, beautifully poised finish that lingers with citrus, minerality and quiet savoury detail. The structure suggests confident ageing for eight to twelve years, developing hazelnut, honey and more intricate mineral layers.

This style shines alongside refined dishes. Consider seared scallops with lemon butter, roast chicken with herbs, grilled whiting, truffle gnocchi, creamy vegetable dishes, soft cheeses, sushi or lobster. The wine’s combination of energy, texture and savoury complexity makes it one of the most versatile Chardonnays at the table.