2023 Pierre-Marie Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés, Beaujolais

Red cherries, orange rind and violets on the nose, followed by a sleek, medium-bodied palate with excellent freshness. Zesty and bright. Drink now.

91 points jamessuckling.com

The newest star in the Chermette firmament, Pierre-Marie’s Saint-Amour comes from a tiny parcel of 50-year-old vines from the Champs-Grillés climat (which covers a total of just three hectares). The parcel was offered to Chermette by an old friend who could no longer manage the Bessay Mountain’s steep aspect . Saint-Amour’s soils include areas of granite, and varying quantities of clay and limestone—a mix said to produce lighter, more delicate wines. Chermette’s vines, however, are all rooted in the classic decomposed granite. The old vines, low yields and high, southeast-facing aspect beget a surprisingly intense wine, which combines the lacy muscle of this grower’s Moulin-à-Vent with the lifted perfume of the Fleurie. It’s a racy, succulent Saint-Amour full of supple, red fruit kissed by blood orange and clove-like spice. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, this wine shows its class.

The Pierre-Marie Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés is a graceful and aromatic cru Beaujolais that captures the charm of one of the region’s most romantic appellations. Pierre-Marie Chermette, working from Domaine du Vissoux, has become one of Beaujolais’ leading voices for traditional, terroir-focused winemaking, favouring minimal intervention and showcasing Gamay’s purity. The Saint-Amour appellation, at the northern edge of Beaujolais near the Mâconnais, produces wines known for their fragrance, finesse and silky texture, and the Champs-Grillés lieu-dit is one of its finest sites.

In the glass it is a luminous ruby red. The bouquet is perfumed and expressive, with red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry lifted by notes of violet, rose petal, white pepper and a touch of spice. On the palate it is medium-bodied and elegant, with juicy red fruits framed by fine tannins and lively acidity. A subtle earthy minerality and savoury depth give the wine complexity, while the finish is long, fresh and graceful.

Food pairings highlight its delicate, perfumed style: roast duck with cherries, coq au vin, grilled salmon, or vegetarian dishes such as mushroom fricassée or ratatouille. It also pairs beautifully with soft cheeses like chèvre or Brie de Meaux. Best enjoyed young for its vibrancy, but it will cellar gracefully for 6 to 8 years, developing notes of dried flowers, truffle and spice.