2023 Speri Valpolicella La Roverina Classico, Pedemonte Veneto

Benchmark Valpo. Others should take note. A thirst-slaking rail of salty phenolics, doused in tangerines and sour cherries, with a touch of garden and alpine herbs. Brisk acidity carries length, finishing with a kick of quinine. Delicious. From organically grown grapes. Sustainable.

91 points jamessuckling.com

From the historic village of Pedemonte in the heart of Valpolicella Classica comes a beautifully traditional expression from one of the region’s great custodians. The Speri family have been rooted in Valpolicella since the late nineteenth century and are widely respected for preserving classic, estate grown styles. Today the fifth generation continues the work, farming organically across prime hillside vineyards. La Roverina is sourced from estate parcels within the original Classico zone, planted to Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara on limestone rich soils that bring freshness, fragrance and fine structure.

Bright ruby with vibrant crimson hues, the aromatics are lifted and pure. Red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry lead, followed by violet, white pepper and a subtle almond nuance that is characteristic of traditional Valpolicella. There is an appealing herbal freshness and a gentle mineral thread that reflects the hillside terroir of Pedemonte.

On the palate it is light to medium bodied, lively and beautifully balanced. Juicy red berry fruit flows across soft, fine tannins and bright natural acidity, making it both refreshing and food friendly. Hints of dried herbs, sour cherry and a faint savoury edge carry through to a clean, persistent finish. It captures the elegance and drinkability that define classic Valpolicella from the Classico heartland.

Pair with antipasto, wood fired pizza, grilled sausages, pasta with tomato and basil or herb roasted chicken. Best enjoyed in its youth over the next five to seven years to appreciate its vibrancy and charm.