2023 Stefano Lubiana Il Giardino Pinot Noir Biodynamic, Derwent Valley

This block is where vegetables, mainly brassicas, were grown when we first purchased the property. Masses of mustard grows wild in these soils, offering plenty of pollen for the bees we keep. In return, they help the vines prosper under biodynamic management. This soil is part Ruscello and part La Roccia in its make-up, the main difference being the transfer of a tighter acid structure from the soil to the fruit. Of the three blocks, this is the biggest – three hectares - of which just three rows are chosen to supply grapes to Il Giardino. It is located just next to the La Roccia block but has a more northerly aspect and sits at a similar elevation. The soil is more variable but has heavier silty black clay topsoil over clay. There is some gravel in the topsoil but it’s a heavier soil than Ruscello and has some limestone influence.

We have spent the last 35 years working on identifying specialised sites on our Granton Estate for the development of iconic Pinot Noir. Our Single Block Pinot Noir range has been selected for their specific terrior, the soil type that truly express the uniqueness of each Pinot Noir. 

Il Giardino translates to ‘the garden’ in Italian. The heavy, silty black clay topsoil over clay base helps water retention in the block, resulting in vines that have more vigour and wines that have more structure with higher acid and tannin profiles.

Steve & Monique Lubiana

Perfumed, delicately detailed aromas of wild strawberries, red cherries, rose petals, dried herbs, orange peel and wet earth. The midweight, textural palate has bright acidity and fine tannins. Long and savory, showing quiet power and precision with an ethereal floral edge. Excellent. Drink or hold.

97 points jamessuckling.com

From a sheltered, beautifully tended parcel in the Derwent Valley comes a Pinot Noir that reflects the garden philosophy at the heart of Stefano Lubiana’s biodynamic approach. Il Giardino, meaning the garden, is a fitting name for a wine born from meticulous vineyard care and deep respect for soil vitality. Established in 1990 by Stefano and Monique Lubiana, the estate became one of Australia’s pioneers of certified biodynamic viticulture. Today the family continues to farm without synthetic inputs, focusing on balance, biodiversity and expressive fruit. The Derwent Valley’s cool maritime influence, long ripening season and gravelly, sandstone influenced soils create ideal conditions for Pinot Noir with perfume, tension and ageing potential.

Bright ruby with luminous crimson hues, the aromatics are lifted and finely detailed. Wild strawberry, red cherry and cranberry sit alongside rose petal, subtle clove and a gentle earthy note. There is a clear mineral thread running through the bouquet, reflecting both biodynamic vitality and the vineyard’s stony soils.

On the palate it is medium bodied, elegant and beautifully structured. Red berry fruit flows across silky tannins and vibrant natural acidity, delivering energy and length. Hints of dried herbs, spice and discreet oak add depth without overshadowing the purity of fruit. The finish is long, savoury and poised, lingering with cherry skin, forest floor and delicate mineral nuance.

Pair with roast duck, grilled quail, Atlantic salmon or mushroom and thyme dishes. While charming in its youth for its vibrancy and perfume, this biodynamic Tasmanian Pinot Noir will cellar confidently for twelve to fifteen years, developing layers of dried rose, undergrowth and savoury complexity.