2023 Stefano Lubiana Riesling Biodynamic, Derwent Valley

Stefano Lubiana’s Riesling from the Derwent Valley is a brilliant showcase of Tasmania’s cool-climate precision and the estate’s pioneering commitment to biodynamics. The Lubiana family, fifth-generation winemakers originally from Friuli in northern Italy, have been instrumental in pushing Tasmanian wine onto the world stage. Their Derwent Valley vineyards are farmed with a deep respect for the land, using biodynamic practices that emphasise soil vitality, biodiversity, and lunar cycles. This approach lends the wines remarkable clarity and energy.

The Riesling is grown on gravelly soils overlooking the Derwent River, where the long, cool growing season allows fruit to develop intensity while retaining piercing natural acidity. Aromatically, it brims with lime zest, green apple, and white blossoms, alongside subtle notes of wet stone and river minerals. On the palate, it strikes a beautiful balance between bright citrus fruit, crystalline purity, and taut acidity, finishing with the kind of saline length that makes Derwent Riesling so distinctive.

Food pairings lean toward delicacy and freshness. Think freshly shucked Tasmanian oysters, ceviche, grilled sardines, or Thai-style green papaya salad. It also pairs beautifully with roasted chicken with lemon and herbs, or vegetarian dishes like asparagus with hollandaise. Cellaring for 8 to 12 years will allow the wine to develop complex honeyed and toasty notes without losing its spine of acidity.