2023 Stefano Lubiana Ruscello Pinot Noir Biodynamic, Derwent Valley

Lifted, floral and spicy aromas of red cherries, raspberries, rose hips, orange zest, dried herbs, blood oranges and crushed stones. The palate is vibrant and tightly wound with bright acidity and finely integrated tannins that lead into a long mineral finish. Just like the producer’s other 2023 bottlings, it's excellent. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

97 points jamessuckling.com

From the sheltered slopes along the Derwent River comes a Pinot Noir that captures the quiet power and purity of biodynamic Tasmania. Stefano Lubiana Wines was founded in 1990 and quickly became one of Australia’s leaders in certified biodynamic viticulture. The Ruscello Pinot Noir, named after the Italian word for stream, reflects the estate’s pristine river setting and commitment to natural balance in the vineyard. Farmed without synthetic inputs and guided by lunar cycles, the fruit develops with clarity and finesse in the Derwent Valley’s long, cool growing season. Gravelly and sandstone influenced soils lend structure and mineral tension, shaping a wine of detail and longevity.

Bright ruby with vivid crimson highlights, the bouquet is lifted and finely layered. Wild strawberry, red cherry and cranberry sit alongside rose petal, subtle spice and a gentle savoury note of forest floor. There is a distinctive mineral freshness that speaks of cool climate origin and biodynamic vitality.

The palate is medium bodied, elegant and beautifully structured. Red berry fruit forms the core, supported by silky tannins and vibrant natural acidity that provide energy and length. Nuances of clove, dried herbs and discreet oak weave through the mid palate, adding depth without masking purity. The finish is long, savoury and persistent, carrying cherry skin, subtle earth and stony minerality.

Pair with roast duck, grilled quail, Atlantic salmon or mushroom and thyme dishes. While captivating in its youth for perfume and vibrancy, this biodynamic Pinot Noir will cellar confidently for twelve to fifteen years, developing complex notes of undergrowth, dried rose and earthy savoury character.