2023 Stefano Lubiana Sasso Pinot Noir, Derwent Valley

A single-vineyard pinot noir that is a blend of three different terroirs in the Lubiana estate – Il Giardino, Ruscello and La Roccia. 100% whole bunch, 12 months' maturation in seasoned French oak barriques. Pure wild strawberry, dark cherry and raspberry fruits suffused with exotic spice, hanging game meats, amaro herbs, crushed rock, tamari, dried shiitake, dried meadow flowers and earth. Balanced and fruit pure with a gentle gamey facet, tight, chalky tannins and briny acid cadence. Fades off slowly with grace and style.

96 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Deeply perfumed and lifted, with aromas of dark cherries, wild blackberries, rhubarb and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of cranberries, dried herbs, graphite and blueberry bush. Quite austere and focused, coming from 50% whole cluster in a cool vintage. Delicious. Drink or hold.

96 points jamessuckling.com

From the cool, river influenced slopes of the Derwent Valley comes a Pinot Noir that captures both biodynamic precision and Tasmanian purity. Stefano Lubiana Wines was established in 1990 by Stefano and Monique Lubiana, with the estate becoming one of Australia’s pioneers of certified biodynamic viticulture. Today the family continues that philosophy, farming without synthetic inputs and focusing on soil health, balance and site expression. The Sasso Pinot Noir takes its name from the stony, rock influenced soils that shape the vineyard character, with ancient sandstone and gravel lending structure and mineral tension. The Derwent Valley’s long, cool growing season and pristine environment allow slow ripening, building aromatic complexity while retaining natural acidity.

Bright ruby in the glass with vivid crimson edges, the aromatics are layered and finely detailed. Wild strawberry, red cherry and cranberry lead, followed by rose petal, subtle spice and a gentle savoury note of forest floor. There is a distinct mineral lift, almost saline, reflecting the vineyard’s rocky soils and cool climate influence.

On the palate it is medium bodied, elegant and beautifully structured. Red berry fruit forms the core, framed by silky tannins and vibrant acidity that give energy and line. Nuances of clove, dried herbs and discreet oak add depth without masking the purity of fruit. The texture is refined yet persistent, carrying through to a long, savoury finish that lingers with cherry skin and earthy complexity. It is a Pinot Noir that balances delicacy with quiet intensity.

Pair with roast duck, quail with thyme, Atlantic salmon, or mushroom and truffle dishes. While expressive and engaging in its youth, this wine will cellar confidently for twelve to fifteen years, developing deeper notes of undergrowth, dried rose and savoury tertiary character.