2023 Sylvie Esmonin Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy

Sylvie’s usual deep dense purple. I was expecting a significant bundle of fruit but the 2023 Bourgogne was a little less concentrated than I anticipated and the acidity is a little angular. Fair fruit returns behind. No whole bunches were used. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Nov 2024.

87 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Sylvie Esmonin may be best known for her work in Gevrey Chambertin, but her Bourgogne Pinot Noir carries the same careful attention to vineyard and detail. Working with parcels just outside the village boundary, often from older vines than you might expect at this level, she brings a sense of place and quiet precision that lifts it well above a simple regional wine.

The aromatics are bright and inviting, red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, with a gentle lift of rose petal and a touch of spice. There is a subtle earthy note too, a hint of forest floor that gives it a more grounded Burgundian feel.

On the palate it is light to medium bodied, with fine, supple tannins and a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything lively. The fruit is pure and detailed, flowing into a clean, lightly savoury finish with a touch of mineral. It feels balanced and effortless, a wine that is easy to enjoy but still has something to say.

Winemaking is handled with restraint, often including a portion of whole bunch and gentle oak use, building texture and complexity without masking the fruit. The result is a Pinot that feels transparent and expressive, showing both grape and place.

This is incredibly versatile at the table. Roast chicken, grilled salmon, charcuterie or even a simple mushroom dish all work beautifully. It also shines slightly chilled, especially when you want something fresh and vibrant.

Best enjoyed young for its brightness and charm, though a few years in bottle will bring a little more savoury nuance.