2023 William Fevre Les Preuses Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

A stunning nose, a little wrapping of seaweed around the stones. Perfectly balanced, then just when you are enjoying the subtlety, you sense the huge block of central white fruit as well. Only a little bit spicy, in fact even quite juicy at the finish. A long-term keeper, potentially a magnificent Preuses. The texture of a silk cravat suggests Didier Seguier. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.

94-96 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Sourced from an east-facing slope that yields one of the racier and more ethereal wines in the range, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses opens with aromas of oyster liquor, orange peel, white flowers and lemon oil. Medium- to full-bodied, taut and tensile, it is nakedly chalky, incisive and searingly saline. The site is so steep that special cable equipment is employed for its cultivation.

95 points robertparker.com

High on the right bank of the Serein River, Les Preuses is one of the most refined of the Chablis Grand Cru vineyards, perched on a slope of ancient Kimmeridgian limestone that once lay beneath a prehistoric sea. Domaine William Fèvre holds an exceptional parcel within this celebrated site, part of the remarkable vineyard holdings the estate has assembled since its founding in 1959. Today the domaine is guided by winemaker Didier Séguier, whose philosophy centres on careful vineyard management and restrained cellar work to highlight the individuality of each cru. Les Preuses is often regarded as the most elegant of the Grand Crus, combining the mineral precision of Chablis with an added layer of texture and finesse.

The colour is pale gold with brilliant clarity and a hint of green at the rim. Aromas rise gently with lemon zest, green apple and white peach layered with delicate white flowers, crushed oyster shell and flinty minerality. With time in the glass the wine reveals subtle notes of hazelnut, almond and a touch of brioche that add depth while preserving the purity of the fruit. The palate is precise and beautifully structured, carrying vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavours supported by bright acidity and a striking mineral core.

There is both power and grace here, with a long saline finish that lingers with remarkable clarity. This Grand Cru has the structure to evolve for twenty years or more and is superb alongside lobster, scallops, turbot, oysters or refined seafood dishes.