2023 Yves Cuilleron Viognier Les Vignes d’à Côté, Northern Rhone

Just outside the classic Condrieu boundaries, Yves Cuilleron’s Vignes d’à Côté range lets him focus on pure varietal expression, and this Viognier captures all the perfume and texture of the grape in a fresher, more approachable style. Working from cooler northern Rhône sites around Chavanay, Cuilleron brings his usual precision, keeping the wine lifted rather than overly opulent.

The 2023 vintage is beautifully aromatic. Apricot and white peach lead, backed by mandarin and a hint of citrus zest. There is a floral lift of jasmine and honeysuckle, along with a gentle spice note and a touch of ginger that adds a bit of intrigue.

On the palate it is medium bodied with that signature Viognier silkiness, but it stays bright and composed. Stone fruit richness is balanced by a line of freshness, with flavours moving into subtle notes of almond, spice and a lightly savoury edge on the finish. It feels generous without tipping into heaviness.

Cuilleron’s winemaking is all about restraint, careful handling and minimal oak influence, allowing the aromatics and natural texture of the variety to take centre stage.

This is a great wine to have some fun with at the table. Try it with grilled prawns with chilli and lime, scallops with a saffron butter, or roast chicken with preserved lemon. It also works beautifully with more adventurous vegetarian dishes like pumpkin and sage gnocchi, roasted cauliflower with turmeric and yoghurt, or a coconut and ginger vegetable curry, where the wine’s aromatics and texture really come alive.

Drinking beautifully now for its freshness and perfume, it will hold over the next few years while picking up a little more honeyed, savoury complexity.